Russ and I have driven most of the Lewis and Clark Trail, in one segment or another. But, we kept saying “ we plan to go to Fort Clapsop.” It has taken quite awhile, but we finally made it ! We left Forks ( reluctantly because we had a great time ) and headed down # 101. We crossed a number of bridges, most of which had been built around the same era, ie, Art Deco of the 1930’s. Interesting decorations, and historic. We found a KOA campground not far from the Fort. A lot of campers found that campground, too. It was full, and the Fort Stevens one across the road was full also. We had called mid afternoon for a reservation, and obtained the last one ! It was raining, and we made our way to the furthermost campsite, but we had one ! We hunkered in for a rainy night, turned on the heat in the trailer, and had soup.
The next morning, we followed Sacagawea to the Fort. It opens at 8 am, and we were not far behind. It was a soft day, as the Irish say, or a scotch mist to some. We browsed the museum, and headed out back to the Fort. Friends had told us that it was small. Compared to the first two forts built, it was smaller. But, they arrived in December, and after choosing a site with a grove of log sized trees, they proceeded to build shelter post haste. Two weeks later they moved into the fort, with fireplaces, beds, shelves for storage, and even a storage room. They stayed there four months, through the worst of the winter.
We were interested to find that they were quite resourceful. They had a Salt Processing Camp on the beach, where they made salt. And we were surprised to hear that each group, ie, soldiers, Sacagawea and family, leaders, each hunted and cooked their own meals. They did not have a group cook, but provided for their group. There was a room for the family, a room for Lewis and Clark, then three rooms adjacent on the other side of the fort. A fireplace in each room kept them warm. The docents were very knowledgeable, some were teachers during the school year, and docents in the summer. They were dressed in buckskins, with coats available made of woolen blankets. One of the pass times for the Corp was making 300 pairs of moccasins ahead for the return trip, because one pair lasted about a week.
The weather improved as we headed toward Oregon. We have talked for years about driving the Oregon Coast. Here was the perfect chance. The coast is beautiful, with sweeping bays, crashing surf, and Sea Stacks off shore. Russ drove, and I sat with my book in hand, too absorbed in the scenery to read. We stopped for the night in Florence, roughly half way down the coast. It is a quaint town, with # 101 winding through it, but the Old Town only two blocks away, lining the docks and marina. We discovered a local hang out for seafood, called Mo’s. It was definitely the place to go. Picnic tables and benches. The kitchen was open to the dining area, and waitresses were brisk, yet friendly. We both were really taken with Florence. After dinner we walked along the waterfront, looking at the fishing boats. It will be a fun place to return to.
The next morning we were rapt with excitement to see what Frommers claimed to be the most beautiful part of the Oregon Coast. And it did not disappoint ! As we approached Coos bay, the Rogue River, and Orford, the bays became even more captivating. The Sea Stacks ( off shore large rocks ) became more numerous. We stopped for lunch at the most beautiful sweeping bay and surf. A paved turn out, perfect for our trailer. We made tuna melts for lunch, and sat looking out at the ocean, surf and blue sky. It just does not get any better !
The afternoon was taken up with a series of turn outs, short walks to viewpoints, and trying to catch our breath with the awesome sights. We crossed the state border into California, and entered Del Norte State Park. We had followed Caitlin and Travis’ footsteps through Olympic National Park, down # 101 through western Washington state, and continued down the Oregon Coast. Caitlin had told us which places they liked the most, and we did visit those places. Lovely sights, committed to memory.
Del Norte is located down a twisty, windy road forested with giant, ancient redwoods. Our campsite was wonderful, a drive through with large trees rimming it. We BBQed, knowing that this was our last night on the road. We walked around the campground, kibitzing on other campers innovations, and then as the light faded savored a campfire and a small glass of the Glenfidditch Single Malt Scotch from Victoria. A perfect end to a perfect road trip.
Our last day on the road was a bit daunting, driving # 299 from McKinnleyville to Redding, with over 2 hours of stop and go with construction on an already narrow, winding, mountainous road. It was a long day, but we paced ourselves, savored the forests and views, and finally arrived at # I-5, and headed home. We nosed the truck into the driveway, turned on the propane for the frig, and headed into the house for showers. In less than an hour, we met dear friends for dinner, and the tediousness of road work was left far behind. As we shared the memories we had made with our friends, we had only good things to say about the places we traveled, the friends and family we visited, and the beauty of this wonderful country that we live in.
Until the next travel blog, I close and say until we meet again,
Love, Ellen/ MOM/ Grandma
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